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PERU EXPLORER: MACHU PICCHU, COLCA CANYON & LAKE TITICACA
September 8-18, 2008

In 2008 we will be operating our third tour of Peru, and we’re excited to be expanding the itinerary to include the city of Arequipa, the Colca Canyon, and Lake Titicaca.

	TRIP SUMMARY Arequipa may well be Peru’s most elegant and romantic city. It was founded shortly after the Spanish conquest and possesses a wealth of convents, churches, homes, and fine art to prove it. The center of the city is built largely of white sillar, a white and porous volcanic stone that gleams under the bright desert sun. Arequipa has perhaps the most stunning Plaza de Armas in all of Peru, teeming with palm trees, framed by volcanoes, and graced by the huge neoclassical cathedral. And just up the street, the gorgeous 400-year-old Santa Catalina Monastery is a city-within-a-city that could have been lifted right out of southern Spain. A Peruvian novelist from Arequipa, described Colca as "The Valley of Wonders,” and that is no overstatement. The Colca Canyon is one of the most scenic regions in Peru, a land of imposing snowcapped volcanoes, narrow gorges, artistically terraced agricultural slopes that predate the Incas, arid desert landscapes and vegetation, and remote traditional villages. Some of Peru's most recognizable wildlife, including llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, and the celebrated giant Andean condors, roam the region. The Colca River, one of the sources of the mighty Amazon, slices through the massive canyon, which remained largely unexplored until the late 1970s, when rafting expeditions descended to the bottom of the gorge. Reaching depths of 11,150 feet -- twice as deep as the Grand Canyon -- el Cañón del Colca forms part of a tremendous volcanic mountain range more than 60 miles long. Dispersed across the Colca Valley are over a dozen colonial-era villages, which date to the 16th century and are distinguished primarily by their small but often richly decorated churches. Local populations in the valley, descendants of the Collaguas and Cabanas (pre-Inca ethnic communities that have lived in the region for some 2,000 years) preserve ancient customs and distinctive traditional dress. They speak different languages and can be distinguished by their hats; Collagua women wear straw hats with colored ribbons, while the Cabanas sport elaborately embroidered and sequined felt headgear. The valley's meticulous agricultural terracing was first cultivated more than 1,000 years ago. The Cruz del Cóndor (Condor Cross) is a lookout point on one side of Colca Canyon that has become famous throughout Peru for its spectacular inhabitants — graceful Andean condors (Vultur gryphus). At a spot 4,000 feet above the canyon river, visitors gather every morning, zoom lenses poised, to witness a stunning wildlife spectacle. The largest birds in the world, with awesome wingspans of over 11 feet, suddenly begin to appear, circling far below in the gorge and gradually gaining altitude with each pass, until they soar silently above the heads of awestruck admirers. It's little wonder that the Incas believed them to be sacred creatures. It flies for hours without flapping its wings using only thermals to spiral so high into the sky that it can disappear from sight. Lake Titicaca seems more like an ocean than a lake. One sign to the contrary is islanders drinking the lake’s clear waters from their cupped hands. This serene expanse of chilly water is not only the highest navigable lake in the world, but it's also, according to legend, the birthplace of one of the greatest empires in history. Here, in the midst of the lake, the children of the Sun and the Moon, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, stepped forth from the sacred rock that still stands near the northwest tip of the Isla del Sol (the Sun Island). This sacred rock has the shape of a puma, and the island, covered in Inca ruins, was revered by the Incas. Indeed, it is the spiritual center of the Andean world. The rugged, snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Real loom over the shores of the lake, but its waters are calm and relaxing to the eye. They're disturbed only by the operators of a few tour boats, launches, and hydrofoils and by local fishermen searching for trout, often in wooden sailboats or rowboats. The swaying reeds on the water's shore provided the material for the first boats on Lake Titicaca, and today there are still a few craftsmen who remember how to make boats from reeds, as their ancestors did. Some say that the heart and soul of Peru is the Cusco area, which was the Inca homeland for two centuries before the Spaniards built Peru’s first capital here in the 16th century. The Incas were a people every bit as advanced s the ancient Egyptians, with the most intricate stone construction in the history of the world and an abundance of what the Spaniards most wanted: gold. Despite the conquistadors’ toll, Peru’s people and their connection to the land have remained remarkably intact over the centuries. On this tour we will journey back in time to the stone huts, the fields of quinoa, and the brightly clothed Quechuan people first encountered by the Spaniards. The Incas considered the Sacred Valley paradise on Earth for its sunny weather, rolling rivers, and fertile earth. This Inca breadbasket produced food for over 100,000 people. The Incas built a string of sacred temples and fortresses up and down the valley. The valley is cut by the Río Urubamba, which tumbles from here through steep gorges and toward the most fabled achievement of the Incas: Machu Picchu. Staying in the town of Aguas Calientes just below Machu Picchu grants us the opportunity to arrive at the ruins early in the morning or linger late in the afternoon, thus minimizing the overlap with the hundreds of day-trippers coming from Cusco. It’s hard to resist the magnetic pull of Machu Picchu, “discovered” by American explorer Hiram Bingham in 1911, and which he thought was the lost city of the Incas. Nearly nine out of ten foreign visitors make it to this citadel of sculpted stone, cloaked in clouds high on a jungle ridge. It is the clearest example of how the Incas built in harmony with extraordinary natural settings. We are then primed for Cusco, an imperial city that is still caught in a tug of war between the New World and European mindset. Atop the flawless stone walls the Incas had built, the Spaniards erected more than a dozen baroque churches and filled them with religious paintings and gold-plated altars. Here we can admire Inca stonework and colonial architecture, tour museums, and enjoy great food and lodging. Join us for this fascinating cultural adventure!











	ITINERARY Day 1, September 8, 2008 - Arrive in Arequipa, Peru. Transfer on your own to the group hotel in the lovely historical center of Arequipa. {Please note: If you would like a private transfer from the Arequipa airport to the hotel, please let us know. We can arrange that for you. Otherwise, taxis are plentiful.} This evening we’ll enjoy a welcome drink and orientation prior to going out for our welcome dinner at a nice restaurant in the center of town. After dinner you might wish to check out one or two of Arequipa’s lively bars. Meals: Dinner

	Day 2 - After breakfast in our hotel we set out to explore this attractive city with one of the highlights being without a doubt the Santa Catalina Monastery. It’s a beautiful step back in time – about 400 years – when entering this city-within-a-city. The architecture, the light, the peacefulness are all truly impressive. We will also take in the city’s central square, the Plaza de Armas, one of the most wonderful city squares in Peru. On the plaza is the massive cathedral, framed on either side by volcanoes in the distance. Just across the Río Chili, not far outside of Arequipa, we will enjoy lunch at a fine restaurant in Yanahuara, followed by a digestive stroll to the town’s central plaza graced with stone archways, a view of Misti volcano, and the 18th-century church of San Juan Bautista. We then stop off at the Mirador de Carmen Alto, which offers views of all the volcanoes, the city of Arequipa, and a sillar quarry used by the Spaniards. Back in Arequipa the rest of the afternoon and evening are free. You may wish to browse the numerous shops; visit the museum of Santuarios Andinos (with its mummies discovered on top of volcanoes in Peru, Chile, and Argentina); or stroll the Plaza de Armas. Overnight in Arequipa. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

	Day 3 - We set out from Arequipa today, crossing a sort of lunar landscape in our private coach. This is very high desert country with rocks, ichu grass, and the blob-like yareta plant, which looks like a moss-covered boulder. This is part of the Reserva Nacional Salinas y Auguada Blanca, which teems with flamingos, geese, and a hearty population of vicuñas (a camelid related to alpacas and llamas). Our route climbs to over 16,000 feet before the road drops down to the Colca Canyon. We will make comfort stops along the way, and all together our journey will take about four hours. Lunch will be at good place in the little village of Coporaque set on the north rim of the canyon. From here it’s a bit of a bumpy ride to our remote, riverside lodge but entirely worth it. Here on the property we have the best thermal springs in the Colca Valley sitting by the river. The tubs are a real delight. For those who wish a little more activity, there’s hiking, fishing, and horseback riding (extra cost). Dinner is at the lodge. Overnight in the Colca Canyon. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

	Day 4 - After a very early breakfast we’ll be on our way to soak in more of the stunning beauty of the Colca Canyon, making our way eventually to the Cruz del Condor – the best lookout point for observing the awesome Andean condor, the largest flying bird in the world. While we can’t guarantee sightings of this amazing creature, the chances of seeing some are good. As the morning warms up, they ride the thermals in search of carrion, which they are able to detect thousands of feet up in the air because of their extraordinary eyesight and sense of smell. Later we begin the next phase of our Peruvian adventure as we drive back to Arequipa and then take a short flight to Juliaca, the airport gateway for reaching Lake Titicaca. A one-hour transfer takes us to the city of Puno where we’ll check into our charming lakeside hotel. Dinner this evening will be in one of Puno’s best restaurants. Overnight in Puno. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

	Day 5 - Another special treat is in store for us today. We can leave most of our luggage at the hotel in Puno, to where we’ll be returning tomorrow and take just an overnight bag with us. We start out by land along the shore of dazzling Lake Titicaca with its calm, clear water and ringed by snow-capped mountains. From the town of Juli a hydrofoil awaits us to whisk us off to the Isla de la Luna (in Bolivian waters). The main site on the island – and one of the best-preserved Inca complexes in Bolivia – is a temple known as Iñak Uyu (Court of Women), probably dedicated to the moon and staffed entirely by women. We then move on to Isla del Sol (in Bolivian waters). The “Sun Island” is the legendary birthplace of the Inca empire and is covered in Inca ruins. We’ll visit Pilcocaina, a 14-room structure that may have been used as a fortress to guard the Virgins of the Sun who were living nearby on Isla de la Luna (Moon Island), of which there is a clear view. This is followed by a “llama trek” where we walk up to our very charming, unique accommodation on the island (30-40 minutes) while llamas or donkeys carry our overnight bags. After lunch the afternoon is free to explore the surroundings with breathtaking panoramas. Dinner and overnight on Isla del Sol, Bolivia. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

	Day 6 - After breakfast we’ll visit the Inca staircase and walk up to a sacred stone fountain with three separate springs, which are said to be a fountain of youth. It is believed that drinking this water gives eternal youth and happiness. Worth a shot. After lunch we’ll visit a small handicraft market before returning to the mainland by hydrofoil to the Bolivian town of Copacabana. From here we return to Puno by land. Overnight in Puno. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

	Day 7 - This morning we’ll take a short flight from Juliaca to Cusco and then head straight down by private coach to the Sacred Valley, sliced by the Urubamba River. The Incas believed this to be paradise on earth, and it’s easy to see why. This part of the river reflects the Milky Way at night. The Sacred Valley is a breathtaking landscape of snow-capped mountains, red granite cliffs, and lush green terraces. It was the Inca breadbasket that still produces much of the grains, vegetables, and fruits consumed in Cusco. Compared to the chilly, thin air of Cusco, the Sacred Valley is lush and balmy. Inca temples, fortresses, and palaces are dotted throughout this valley, along with charming Andean villages that produce and sell some of the country’s finest handicrafts. After the most amazing buffet lunch you’re ever likely to have, we’ll board Peru Rail for the ride into Aguas Calientes, the town that sits beneath Machu Picchu. Here we stay on the edge of town in one of Peru’s most delightful accommodations, beautifully landscaped and decorated, with an excellent restaurant. Overnight in Aguas Calientes. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

	Day 8 - Day 8 We have a full day to appreciate the stunning Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, most visitors’ primary reason for coming to Peru. Since our lodging is in Aguas Calientes we can rise early, go up to the site, and take advantage of beginning our Machu Picchu visit in the calm early-morning hours before the day trippers arrive en masse from Cusco around 10:00am. These visitors start leaving around 2:00pm to catch their Cusco-bound train, therefore we also have the privilege of lingering at Machu Picchu in the late afternoon into sunset. There are some beautiful hikes away from the main grounds depending on your interests and energy level, including the one to Huayna Picchu (the peak towering over the citadel) and the Temple of the Moon. Overnight in Aguas Calientes. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner {Note: For further information about Machu Picchu, see below.}

	Day 9 - This morning is at leisure. Our lodge offers numerous themed walks with their own naturalist guides around the extensive grounds: birdwatching, orchid tours, nature walks, etc. There is also a hike through the forest to waterfalls and pre-Inca stone carvings. Or perhaps take advantage of the spa with a variety of soothing treatments on the menu. We’ll depart after lunch, taking the train to the town of Ollantaytambo where we’ll return to our usual mode of private coach transport. On our way to the city of Cusco we’ll stop off at a couple of the Sacred Valley’s more unusual sights: the agricultural laboratory of Moray, and the salt pools at Maras. At first glance Moray appears to be a ceremonial center or a Greek-style amphitheater with its perfect terracing. But researchers have discovered that these natural depressions terraced by the Incas produce microclimates. Differences in sunlight, shade and elevation among the terraces create different temperatures. Moray was once a huge crops laboratory. It is thought that the Incas might have learned to grow corn and potatoes here in a variety of elevations, which helped fuel expansion of their empire. Another example of the Incas transforming nature is the thousands of pools created by the diversion of a warm, salty spring at Maras. Sunlight evaporates the water leaving a thin crust of salt. The Salinas continue to be worked by a collective of hundreds of salt miners from nearby villages. There are over 5,000 pools each yielding about 300 pounds of unrefined salt a month. The contrast is remarkable between the barren hills and the blinding white salt pools Then it’s up to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire and one of Peru’s most vibrant cities today. The evening is free. Overnight in Cusco. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

	Day 10 Today we have a full day to explore the wonders of this ancient city, including the wonderful main square, the Plaza de Armas; the cathedral, the looming fortress of Sacsayhuamán; and the sun temple, Coricancha. Cusco also has some fine museums, excellent shopping, and nice cafes. This evening we’ll come together to enjoy our Farewell Dinner and look back on all the amazing experiences of this trip. It will be hard to believe that it’s already come to an end. Overnight in Cusco. Meals: Breakfast, Dinner {Note: For further information about Cusco, see below.}

	Day 11, September 18, 2008 - Depending on your flight arrangements, you may have a good part of the day to take in more of Cusco’s sights, finish your shopping, or simply relax at the hotel. Transfer on your own to Cusco airport for your homeward-bound flights (via Lima) or wherever your continuing travels may take you. {Please note: If you would like a private transfer from the hotel to Cusco airport, please let us know. We can arrange that for you. Otherwise, the hotel can arrange a taxi for you.} Meals: Breakfast

PRICING
$2995 (14-16 participants)
$3195 (11-13 participants)
$3295 (8-10 participants)
Single Supplement: $595

Price includes:
* All accommodations in beautiful, charming, upscale properties
* All meals except for 1 lunch and 3 dinners
* Tour escort traveling with the group for the duration of the tour
* Ground transportation in comfortable minibuses
* Round-trip train transportation to and from Machu Picchu by Peru Rail
* All entrance fees for sights visited as a group
* Local guides' services at some of the sights and at some of the lodges

Price does not include:
* International airfare to meeting point in Peru (Arequipa) and from departure point (Cusco)
* 2 domestic flights: Arequipa to Juliaca and Juliaca to Cusco - Allow approximately $200 in total
* Extra hotel nights that might be desired or needed (Lima, Arequipa, Cusco)
* Wine, beer, and other alcoholic beverages at most group meals
* Personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, minibar, etc.

MACHU PICCHU
Through photography many have tried, but none has succeeded in capturing the majesty of Machu Picchu. The ancient city’s streets, temples, and stairways sprawl across a jungle ridge that drops a thousand feet into the Río Urubamba below. Andean peaks, including Huayna Picchu rise in the background and frame this mist-enshrouded island in the sky. A visit here is many visitors’ main reason for coming to Peru. The spot has a vibrant, spiritual feel and is probably the world’s best example of architecture integrating with the landscape — building a world around nature not against it.

At sunrise rows of ruins are illuminated one by one as the sun gradually appears over the mountain peaks. The sun, moon, earth, and water were revered by the Incas, and they shape the city’s layout. Adding to the aura of Machu Picchu archeologists still do not know when or why it was built. It does not appear in any colonial chronicles, and it lay ivy covered and forgotten for centuries until Yale archeologist Hiram Bingham stumbled across it in 1911. Over time historians and archeologists have put forth their theories — that Machu Picchu was an exclusive religious complex; a giant coca plantation; or even a boarding school for brainwashing the children of leaders conquered by the Incas. One theory gaining widespread acceptance is that Machu Picchu was a winter retreat built in the mid-15th century.

Some of the highlights of Machu Picchu include: the Temple of the Sun; the Royal Tomb; the Royal Area; the Temple of Three Windows; the Principal Temple; the Intihuatana (Hitching Post of the Sun); and Temple of the Condor.

Apart from these main sights, Machu Picchu also stands out for its exquisite Temple of the Moon. This natural cave, sculpted with curving stone walls, is well worth the 1 to 2-hour hike up Huayna Picchu. From the summit of Huayna Picchu a perfect view of the entire complex below can be appreciated, spreading out like a map.

CUSCO
The Incas’ capital city was Cusco, which in the Quechua language means belly button of the world. Though the Spaniards did their best to destroy the Inca buildings, they left many of the seamless stone walls as foundations which now line Cusco’s narrow cobblestone alleys, connecting the numerous baroque churches and convents that the Spaniards built. Despite four centuries of Spanish domination, Cusco still seems to be caught in a tug-of-war between Spanish and Inca cultures. This incongruous juxtaposition of cultures is one reason visitors are induced to linger here. With every earthquake the Spanish constructions cracked and tumbled while the Inca walls stood strong.

Along with the Aztec capital in Mexico, Cusco was the other imperial capital in the Americas at the start of the Spanish conquest. Cusco was the New World’s version of ancient Rome with paved roads fanning out from here through the Inca empire which had stretched in just a century almost the entire length of the west coast of South America. The city was a dazzling sight with its temples, colossal plazas, royal palaces, and the hilltop fortress of Sacsayhuamán. It was fashioned in the shape of a puma, a sacred animal admired for its grace and strength, with Sacsayhuamán as the head, the city as the body, and the Coricancha sun temple at the tail.

The stone fortress of Sacsayhuamán, with its massive zigzag walls fashioned from blocks weighing hundreds of tons, towers over Cusco and is the highest expression of the Incas’ military strength.

A severe earthquake in 1950 destroyed the homes of 35,000 people in Cusco but had the unexpected benefit of destroying colonial facades that had masked Inca stonework for centuries. Much of the stonework visible today was discovered thanks to this earthquake. Based on these Inca ruins and the Spanish colonial architecture, Cusco was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

Cusco’s Plaza de Armas is surrounded by colonial stone arcades and graced with two extraordinary churches, the Cathedral and the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compañia. The plaza is a lively place for both locals and tourists. Two flags fly over the plaza, the red-and-white flag of Peru and the rainbow-colored flag of the Inca nation (which is nearly identical to the gay pride flag).