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| BHUTAN:
Inside a Himalayan Mountain Kingdom Check out the Bhutan photos from our recent reconnaissance trip.
OVERVIEW Nestled into the lofty Himalayan Mountains between
Tibet and India, the kingdom of Bhutan — “Land of the
Thunder Dragon” — is one of the most exotic destinations
and one of the most intriguing countries in the world today —
a unique place that few outsiders have had the privilege of visiting.
In this mystical and mountainous land of deities and demons, awaiting
us are ethereal fortress-monasteries, red-robed monks, and a thriving
Buddhist culture. The king decrees "Gross National Happiness"
(GNH) as the standard by which to measure the country's wealth. For
centuries Bhutan followed a policy of self-imposed isolation. Only
in the second half of the 20th century did this amazingly beautiful
“Shangri-La” open its doors to the world, throwing off
its veil of mystery. The Bhutanese government pursues a very cautious
and controlled approach to tourism development, as they are extremely
keen to safeguard this tiny country’s environment and its amazingly
rich, carefully preserved cultural heritage. The effort involved in
visiting this unique country is well worth it for the trip of a lifetime
— an unforgettable experience of a sacred land and its people.
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DAY-TO-DAY
ITINERARY
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Day
2: Thimphu We have much to see in and around Bhutan’s capital today. After breakfast we visit the National Memorial Chorten, built in memory of the third King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. A large, Tibetan-style chorten (stone Buddhist monument), it is one of the most visible religious structures in Thimphu, and throughout the day people circumambulate the chorten and pray at a small shrine inside the gate. We continue to the hilly suburb of Motithang to get a bird’s eye view of the city. Nearby is a preserve where we will become acquainted with Bhutan’s national animal, the Takin – a rather odd mammal related to goats but resembling more an antelope. Our guide will explain their interesting story and the legend behind them. We move on to Drubthop Lhakhang temple, which now houses a nunnery. After lunch in town we’ll visit the National Institute of Traditional Medicine which prepares and dispenses traditional herbal medicines as well as the Traditional ‘Painting School,’ where we can admire the skill and artistry of Bhutanese youth who come from all over the country to learn drawing, painting, woodcarving, embroidery and statue-making. We also see the National Library, which preserves many ancient Dzongkha (the language of Bhutan) and Tibetan texts and is a lavishly decorated and vibrant example of Bhutanese architecture. We continue our drive south to Lungtenzampa to visit the Royal silversmiths at work and then stop by at the Bhutanese Paper factory. |
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Day
3: Punakha Valley This morning we’ll leave the ‘big city’ behind and begin our journey eastward through Bhutan. Heading out of Thimphu the road gradually climbs through apple orchards and then forests of blue pine and cedar, festooned with hanging lichen high up near Dochula Pass (10,000 ft.). This pass offers panoramic views of the Himalayan Mountain ranges (visibility permitting). The area around this pass is believed to be inhabited by numerous spirits, including a cannibal demoness. A temple in the Punakha Valley (which we come to a bit later) was built in honor of the Lama Drukpa Kunley who subdued these spirits and demons. After a brief stop to catch the breathtaking views, we will descend along a series of hairpin bends, dropping down to the fertile valley of Punakha (4,430 ft.) and its balmy, lush, and beautiful landscapes. Before proceeding further to Punakha town we will enjoy a fairly easy walk through rice fields to the yellow-roofed Chimi Lhakhang temple, built in 1499, perched on a small hill. This temple is dedicated to the great 14th-century Yogi known as Drukpa Kunley or popularly known as the ‘Divine Madman’ in the west. It is believed that this temple blesses women who seek fertility. A popular pilgrimage spot for the Bhutanese, it is frequented by childless couples and parents who have difficulty raising children. Here we can be blessed with a 10-inch penis, if only for a day. After lunch we continue our drive to the magnificent Punakha Dzong (fortress-monastery), situated between Pho Chu and Mo Chu (the Male and Female Rivers). The gorgeous fortress commands this river confluence and is one of Bhutan’s most impressive buildings. It is now used as the winter seat of the Je Khenpo (the spiritual head of Bhutan). This Dzong also served as the capital seat of the Kingdom for more than three hundred years. Elaborately painted gold, red, and black carved woods add to the artistic touch of the fortress. The winter capital was located in Punakha in part because it is a warm, well-watered valley with a relatively low altitude of 4,000 feet, allowing for the production of two rice crops each year. Oranges, mangos, bananas, and even pomegranates are grown here. In Punakha, you may see people from the remote village of Laya. The Layap, as they are known, are yak herders who make the three- or four-day walk to Punakha from their high altitude villages in the Gasa district to trade. Women of Laya are recognizable by their conical bamboo hats with a center spike of bamboo. Laya’s men wear distinctive black woolen cloaks. |
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Day
4: Punakha to Trongsa Today we set out early on the wonderful drive to the central valleys of Bhutan through the country’s rich flora. As we enter the valley of Wangdue Phodrang the dramatic Wangdue Phodrang Dzong comes into view, draped along the end of a high ridge above the junction of the Tsang Chu and Dang Chu rivers. We take the opportunity to photograph this majestic fortress. The cacti that cover the hillside below the dzong were planted long ago to discourage invaders from climbing the steep slope. Our spectacular route then climbs steadily in the Black Mountains, passing through semi-tropical vegetation and finally reaching Pele La Pass (10,989 ft.), which is marked by a chorten and an array of fluttering prayer flags. The pass, with an alpine environment of rhododendrons and dwarf bamboo (called cham), is traditionally considered the boundary between Western and Eastern Bhutan. If the skies are clear enough we can view more soaring snow-capped peaks, among them Mount Chomolhari (24,355 ft.). It’s quite possible that we’ll encounter yaks in this area. Because it takes extra time to get here, this part of Bhutan sees fewer tourists than in Thimphu, Paro, and Punakha. In fact, until the 1970s the only way to reach this part of Bhutan was on foot or atop a sure-footed horse. A gentle winding descent from the pass takes us through rhododendrons, blue pine, spruce, oak, and dwarf bamboo to Chendebji Chorten, situated in a lovely spot by yet another confluence of rivers. This chorten was built in the 18th century by a Tibetan Lama called Shida in order to cover the remains of an evil spirit that had been terrorizing the inhabitants of this valley and the Ada valley just over the ridge. The large white chorten is patterned after Swayambhunath in Kathmandu (Nepal). We will have our pack lunch here. As we proceed the road turns a corner into the broad Mangde River valley. The shrubs along this part of the road are edgeworthia, which is used to make paper. We may also see brown monkeys. As we enter the Trongsa valley, the huge fortress of Trongsa dominates the entire landscape. No wonder -- it is the largest dzong/fortress in Bhutan. Like all other dzongs, it has been built on a strategic location. The view from the dzong extends for many miles and in ancient times nothing could escape the vigilance of its watchmen. At the junction of three major roads, Trongsa itself has long been the glue that holds the country together. Even today the Crown Prince must serve as regional governor of the dzong before he can rule as king. |
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Day
5: Trongsa Dzong / To Bumthang Valley Trongsa Dzong is one of the most dramatic examples of traditional Bhutanese architecture, a masterpiece with a maze of courtyards, passageways, and over two dozen temples. It is also spectacularly sited above the Mangde River, with a sheer drop to the south that sometimes just disappears into mist. In ancient times this fortress served as the capital for the Governors of Eastern Bhutan and later served as the capital for the first and second kings. We’ll also stop in at a new museum that’s housed in the watchtower above the dzong whose displays focus on Buddhist art and the history of the monarchy. After the visit we head for the Bumthang Valley. From Trongsa the road rises rapidly through a series of hairpin bends until we arrive at Yotong La Pass (11,200 ft.). From here the road descends through firs, blue pines, and bamboo to the Chumey Valley (8,800 ft.). Our first stop here will be to visit the small village of Tsugney where we can observe traditional weaving. The specialty here is yathra, distinctive strips of woven woolen fabric in numerous colors and patterns. If you wish you can buy single strips of cloth or woolen jackets and blankets. Continuing on, our drive takes us to Choekhor by crossing the Kiki La Pass (9,500 ft.). Upon arriving in the Choekhor Valley (‘Valley of the Dharma Wheel’) we’ll check in to our charming accommodations and then explore the small town of Jakar. |
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Day
6: Bumthang Festival (Jambay Lhakhang Drup) Bumthang is extraordinarily beautiful, even for Bhutan. It is comprised of four high valleys – Chume, Chokhor, Tang, and Ura – covered in forests speckled with small monasteries, chortens, traditional stone houses, and markets. Bumthang is famous for woodcarving, mask-making and yathra. Today we have the privilege to witness the sacred and ancient Jambay Lhakhang Drup festival – one of the most spectacular festivals in Bhutan. We’ll spend most of the day at this remarkable colorful event. We will be able to watch the locals in their festive mood, performing many ritual dances beside the monastery. The five-day-long festival features a different dance program every day. The dances are subdivided into three categories: those that are intended to give moral instruction; those that are designed to drive away evil spirits; and those that celebrate the Buddhist faith in its many guises. As fascinating as the dances themselves are the activities of the local people who flock to the festival from far and wide, dressed in their finest costume. |
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Day
7: Phobjikha Valley Today is our turn-around point as we head back towards Western Bhutan, with the beautiful and remote Phobjikha Valley being our first destination. After crossing back over the Pele La pass, we’ll deviate from the main road onto another route that will lead us to the broad valley of Phobjikha. This bowl-shaped glacial valley serves as the winter home for the rare and endangered species of black-necked cranes that migrate from the plateau of Tibet when it gets cold. With some luck we might spot some of them. The birds migrate to Bhutan sometime in the fall and return to Tibet in the spring. They occupy a special place in Bhutanese hearts and folklore, inspiring songs and dances. Their arrival usually heralds the end of harvest season and the time when farm families begin migrating to warmer climates. Also in this area live barking deer, wild boar, Himalayan black bear, leopard, and red fox. We’ll spend some time stretching our legs with some fairly easy walking in this beautiful valley. |
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Day
8: Paro The last leg of our journey in this wonderful Himalayan Mountain kingdom takes us to Paro and its environs. W e come to Kyichu Lhakhang temple, one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful temples, built in the seventh century by Tibetan King Songtsen Gonpo to pin down, as the story goes, the left foot of a giant ogress who was thwarting the establishment of Buddhism into Tibet. Also on our program is a visit to the excellent National Museum of Bhutan, housed in a 17th-century watchtower at the top of a hill, which contains works of art, handicrafts, costumes, armor, and rare stamps. An easy hike down from the museum leads us to Rinpung Dzong (meaning ‘fortress on a heap of jewels’), both the religious and secular center of Paro, and certainly the most dominant feature in the valley. It is one of the country’s most impressive dzongs and is yet another fine example of Bhutanese architecture. We’ll cross the Paro River on a traditional wooden covered bridge and then have a leisurely stroll through Paro town. |
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Day
9: Hike to Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest ) Monastery On our last full day in Bhutan we’ll hike to the legendary 17th-century Taktsang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest), the most famous of Bhutan’s monasteries, miraculously perched on the side of a sheer cliff nearly a thousand feet above the floor of Paro valley. It is believed that in the 8th century Guru Rimpoche, the tantric mystic who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, landed here on the back of a flying tigress to subdue a demon. Guru Rimpoche is supposed to have meditated here for three months, and it is considered something of a ‘Mecca’ for Buddhists. The trail to the monastery climbs through beautiful blue pine forest, many of the trees festooned with Spanish moss, and an occasional grove of fluttering prayer flags. We stop at the wooden teahouse-restaurant (which offers an impressive view of the monastery) for a rest and lunch and then continue the hike (if you wish) for another half hour until we see, clearly and seemingly within reach, the imposing Taktsang monastery. A spectacular outlook puts us ‘eyeball to eyeball’ with the monastery, which appears to be growing out of the rock on the other side of a deep chasm. A short descent and ascent finally bring us to the monastery entrance. All together the hike is about two and a half hours going up to the monastery; about an hour and a half coming back. The gain in elevation is about 1,000 feet to the teahouse and another 600-foot gain or so from there to the look-out. Later we will visit the ancient ruins of Drukgyal Dzong, built in 1647 in a location chosen for its control of the route to Tibet. It was named ‘Druk’ (Bhutan) ‘gyel’ (victory) to commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invaders. The fortress was featured on the cover of National Geographic magazine when an article about Bhutan was published in 1914! The fortress served as an administrative center until 1951 when a fire brought it down. This wonderful site sits at the very end of the road leading out of Paro towards the Tibetan border. From here clear skies will permit a magnificent view of Mount Jhomolhari (24,355 ft.), Bhutan’s divine mountain, rising above lush rice terraces and apple orchards. We return to our comfortable hotel in Paro to freshen up before enjoying our farewell dinner to celebrate our last evening in Bhutan. You may wish to take advantage of a massage or sauna before dinner. |
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10: October 29, 2010, Departure This morning we’ll drive to the nearby Paro Airport to begin our homeward journey. Our guide will bid us farewell and soon the remote and legendary Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon disappears again behind its majestic guardian mountains.
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Itinerary Notes: This itinerary
intends to provide you with a very good idea of the likely trip schedule.
However, the itinerary is subject to change either before departure
or during the trip. Because of possible changes in air schedules and
the complex nature of the itinerary, the possibility exists that the
order of events may vary from what is reflected here. Factors such as
weather and other conditions may dictate itinerary changes either before
departure or while on the tour. We also reserve the right to change
this schedule in the interest of the trip participants’ safety,
comfort, and general well being. |
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ARRIVAL
/ DEPARTURE |
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PRICING $3195 (13-15 participants) $3395 (10-12 participants) $3595 (6-9 participants) Single Supplement: $650 Included in Tour Cost • All accommodations (4 nights in deluxe international hotels; remainder in traditional guest houses or standard accommodations) • All meals • All ground transportation throughout the country in a deluxe Toyota Coaster bus • Airport pick-up and drop-off • Bottled water with meals • Bhutan visa fee • English-speaking Bhutanese Tour Guide with excellent cultural knowledge • All sightseeing activities and entry fees to monasteries and other sights mentioned in the itinerary • Venture Out escort (with a minimum of 6 participants) • Government welfare levy for health and education initiatives and sustainable tourism development fund Not Included in Tour Cost • International airfare and en route stopovers in Bangkok • Druk Air arrangements to/from Bhutan (Venture Out will coordinate this. Please allow $800 per person for the round-trip fare Bangkok/Paro/Bangkok; subject to change.) • Tipping to Tour Guide and Driver • Beverages, except bottled water • Airport departure tax from Paro (approximately $15) • Medical immunizations prior to departure, if needed • Travel insurance for trip cancellation, travel delay, baggage, emergency medical evacuation, etc. • Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances such as inclement weather, flight cancellations, or any other factors beyond the control of Venture Out or our operators. • Items of a personal nature such as small offerings at temples, passport issuance/renewal (if applicable), laundry, phone calls, gifts, and so forth. Single Supplements Costs are based on double occupancy. We do not like to charge an additional amount for the single traveler and — upon request — we will attempt to match such travelers with a suitable roommate. If no one is available to share, the single supplement charge will apply. If you are traveling solo and your preference is to have your own room, please indicate that on your trip enrollment form. The single supplement will be applied to your final invoice. No refunds can be made for any unused accommodations, services, sightseeing, etc. Druk Air Tickets Druk Air tickets must now be paid for and issued at the time of your initial tour deposit. If you cancel your trip 45 days or more prior to your arrival date in Bhutan, the Druk Air tickets are refundable, minus administration charges. If you cancel between 45 and 30 days prior to arrival, there is a 50% refund of the Druk Air ticket cost. There is no refund for Druk Air tickets cancelled less than 30 days prior to arrival. [Back to Top] |
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TOURISM REGULATION
IN BHUTAN Tourism in Bhutan is managed through partnership of government regulators and private tour operators under a policy summed up by the mantra “limited, high value, low impact.” The Bhutanese government sets a fixed, minimum daily tourist tariff which is applicable to all tour operators in Bhutan. The government regulates the cost in order to manage tourism in a sensible and sustainable way, avoiding negative effects on both the environment and the culture. The major share of the tariff that goes to the government is used for providing health and education services as well as maintaining the infrastructure for tourism. The tourism authority strictly monitors any kind of undercutting, and will impose severe sanctions on anyone found guilty of this practice, such as revocation of business license, disruption of tours, and even deportation of visitors who use these agents. When you visit Bhutan you become one of the few who have experienced the charm and magic of one of the world’s most enigmatic countries, and you’ll be playing your part in this medieval kingdom’s efforts to join the modern world, while steadfastly balancing that with its distinct and amazing cultural identity. |
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CLIMATE /
SEASON The autumn also heralds the arrival of the black-necked cranes to
their wintering grounds in central and eastern Bhutan. We may have a
chance to observe these rare and endangered birds as our program falls
at the very beginning of their migration to the country. As indicated
in the detailed itinerary our program also coincides with the colorful
Jampey Lhakhang Drup festival. |
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ACCOMMODATIONS Dining is typically buffet-style at the lodges. This usually consists of a combination of Indian / Chinese / Western fare. Adventurous eaters might like to try the Bhutanese dishes, which are extremely spicy |
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| TRANSPORTATION There are no domestic flight or rail services in Bhutan; all destinations are accessible by road only. The roads used for some of our itinerary pass through very rugged terrain, which limits speeds to around 15-20 mph. But en route you will have spectacular views of landscapes, snow-capped mountains, lush green valleys, unpolluted crystal clear rivers, farmlands, and villages. Transportation is in a deluxe Toyota Coaster bus or similar vehicle. Bhutan is a small country (about the size of Switzerland) and we do not cover great distances, but movement can be slow because of the terrain. Our longer drives would be around four and a half hours on Day 4 and about six hours on Day 7. [Back to Top] |
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TRIP DEMANDS While this is not an “adventure trip” by any means, this trip will best be enjoyed if you are in good physical condition for the journey because we are on our feet quite a bit, and we also do some easy to moderate hikes during the program. While we will be at some very high altitudes during the trip as we go over some mountain passes, we will not be hiking at these high altitudes. The hike to the ‘Tiger’s Nest’ involves the most physical exertion on the trip, and it comes at the end of the tour when we will be well acclimatized to the altitudes. This tour entails some long drives on narrow, winding, mountainous roads. Bathroom facilities during some of these drives may be limited, and sometimes the best option is a nearby tree or rock. Anyone who would be uncomfortable in such a situation should not consider this trip. Three of our accommodations are 2-night stays; the other three accommodations on the trip are 1-night stays. |
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TRAVEL DOCUMENTS A valid passport is required for your trip, and it should be valid for at least six months beyond your arrival in Bhutan. You will need a visa for Bhutan. Venture Out will help to arrange your visa through our Bhutanese operator. We will need a photocopy or scanned email attachment of your passport photo page. |
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| IMMUNIZATIONS Consult with your physician regarding travel immunizations, such as hepatitis vaccine and tetanus and typhoid boosters. Entry requirements and international health situations are subject to change; check with the Centers for Disease Control for updates. Another useful site is MD Travel Health. [Back to Top] |
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