Gay Tours: Escorted vacation to Andalucia-Spain for gay and lesbian travelers

ANDALUCIA: Soulful Southern Spain! April 23 - May 2, 2008 This itinerary will take us to some of Spain's grandest palaces — the stunning Alhambra in Granada and the Alcázar of Seville, plus two of the country's most magnificent cathedrals — those of Seville and Córdoba, which was converted from a magnificent mosque. Also featured is the charming country town of old Moorish Ronda with its winding streets perfect for wandering and split in two by a fantastic gorge. And we get caught up in the passions of flamenco music and dancing in the old quarter of Seville. The "Dancing Horses" at the Andalucían School of Equestrian Art in Jerez de la Frontera (world-renowned for its sherry production) is another fun stop on our route. Our finale is in the coastal city of Málaga, home to the excellent Picasso Museum. Southern Spain, while very popular with vacationers and expatriates who have moved there in the recent past, has actually long been a destination so attractive that it’s been invaded time and again by various cultures for nearly 3,000 years. Andalucía — the large region in southernmost Spain — has held an allure and a whiff of the exotic for a long, long time. Nowhere does Europe come closer to Africa — physically and metaphorically. Much of its natural beauty, history, culture, and architecture span two continents, and it’s this unique blending that has long given the region its distinctive flavor. In particular, it’s the legacy of the Moors, whose 700-year presence in Spain remains etched in stone across the land, which has greatly created Andalucía’s exoticism. Another major draw is that Andalucía is popularly seen as the quintessential Spain. This is the home of nearly everything that is perceived of as stereotypically Spanish: bullfighting; flamenco; fragrant orange blossom, tapas, sherry, gypsies . . . Come along with us and experience soulful Southern Spain!
	Day 1 - April 23, 2008 Hola! We will meet at our hotel in Granada for a welcome drink and get acquainted or re-acquainted with each other as the case may be. Our welcome dinner will be in the Albaicín district, an old Arab quarter on one of Granada’s two main hills. A labyrinth of crooked streets, it has well-preserved alleyways, patios, cisterns, fountains, whitewashed houses, and plazas. {Historical note: Federico García Lorca, the most widely translated Spanish author of all time, was born in 1898 near Granada, and his family moved into the city when he was 11. Lorca, who was gay, came to be seen as a champion of Andalucían subculture through his plays and poetry. At the beginning of the horrific Spanish Civil War in 1936, Lorca went into hiding in Granada as he was viewed as a sympathizer of the Republican government (despite not being politically active). He was closely associated with the liberal left because he was gay, his plays were “inflammatory,” and his sister was married to Granada’s Socialist mayor. He was dragged out of hiding that summer and murdered three days later at the age of 38. As Lorca had predicted in one his poems, his body was never found.} Welcome drink and dinner included.

	Day 2 Today we visit the Alhambra. Nowhere else in Spain can evoke past Islamic glories with such force. A Moor from medieval times might have considered the Alhambra as paradise on earth. And it is the most complete surviving example of its kind in the world. This remarkable palace is the most visited monument in Spain and ranks high in all of Europe. It truly is one of the most extraordinary collections of buildings and gardens on the continent. Although the complex started life in the 11th century, its most spectacular period of architecture came in the 14th century with the construction of the Palacio de los Leones (the private living quarters of the sultan and his family) and the Palacio de Comares (where emissaries and important guests were received). Many would say that the subsequent additions made by Christian rulers upset the aesthetic unity of the Alhambra, yet the Palacio de Carlos V and the Convento de San Francisco (a fine expression of Italian Renaissance) are certainly beautiful in their own right and add to the sense of history. Just outside the Alhambra walls is the Generalife, a wonderful pattern of walkways, fountains, and garden patios. The name derives from the Arabic phrase for “Garden of the Architect.” These were the pleasure gardens of the sultans. The gardens are a delightful place to rest after seeing the rest of the Alhambra, and there are stunning views over the complex and the Albaicín district of the city. Leaving the Alhambra we will go to the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), built as a mausoleum for Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand in the 1500s. They wished to be buried in Granada, the scene of their most important victory. This late-Gothic chapel is Granada’s finest Christian building. The royal coffins rest in the crypt sitting beneath elaborate Renaissance sepulchers. There is also a stunning altarpiece, and the sacristy here houses a priceless collection of crown jewels, including Isabella’s crown and scepter and Ferdinand’s sword, which were traditionally paraded through Granada during the annual celebration of the conquest of the Moors. Built on to the Capilla Real is the cathedral of Granada, which replaced the city’s mosque as the final expression of the Catholic rehabilitation of the city. The architecture is one if the finest examples of Spanish Renaissance. Breakfast and lunch included.

	Day 3 A leisurely morning in Granada is followed by an hour’s drive to what is perhaps the most luxurious retreat in the south of Spain. This secluded oasis of a hotel lies in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada and is where we’ll enjoy our lunch today. The setting is stunning with the meal to match. Later we continue to Córdoba and check in to our amazing 5-star hotel for the next two nights. Córdoba is a relatively compact, attractive provincial capital city and is perfect for exploring on foot. Its premier draw is the magnificent Mezquita, the most ambitious mosque ever built in the West and an important symbol of the city’s preeminence in the glory days of al-Andalus. Around the Mezquita the city’s Jewish quarter, a network of whitewashed alleys, can sometimes seem like a sleepy village. Córdoba is also famed within Andalucía for its fine restaurants — perhaps the best in the region. Breakfast and lunch included.

	Day 4 We visit the Mezquita — the most ambitious mosque ever built by the Moors. It ranks among Europe’s grandest attractions. It was started in 786 on the site of a former Visigoth cathedral, which had itself been built upon a Roman temple. A surprising addition to it was the incongruous Renaissance cathedral constructed at its very heart. The mosque is the origin of the Caliphal architectural style, combining Roman, Visigothic, Byzantine, Syrian, and Persian elements, and became the reference point of all Arabian-Hispanic architecture until the reconquista. The imposing outer walls retain their original highly decorated entrances. The Patio de los Naranjos is an immense courtyard of orange trees, palms, and fountains, originally used for ablutions before prayer. Still visible are the irrigation channels dug by the Muslims. Inside the mosque itself there are an astounding number of columns and striking terracotta-and-white striped horseshoe arches. Before the Catholic takeover, the mosque had a total of 900 pillars. Remarkably, 856 pillars are still standing. The Byzantine mosaics, which have hundreds of pieces of tiny gold, glass, and ceramic tiles, were a gift of the 10th-century emperor of Constantinople. The Renaissance cathedral was built in 1523 and sits in the center of the mosque. While it has its worthy architectural details, the ruler Carlos V later lamented that he had “destroyed something that was unique in the world.” We will also visit the 14th-century synagogue. Built in 1315, it is one of only three surviving pre-Inquisition synagogues in Spain. The synagogue is noted particularly for its stucco work, and you can still see the balcony where women were sequestered during worship. After the Jews were expelled from Spain, the synagogue was turned into a hospital, until it became a Catholic chapel in 1588. After lunch a special treat is in store. We will take you to a traditional hammam — a beautiful Arabic bathhouse where you can enjoy a soothing soak in pools of various temperatures followed by a massage with aromatic oils. In keeping with tradition there is also a tearoom where you can taste a variety of teas and enjoy a typical Moorish pastry. The remainder of the day is yours to complete as you wish. Shopping, strolling, more sightseeing — soak up the atmosphere of lovely Córdoba. Breakfast and lunch included.

	Day 5 Just a few miles outside of Córdoba lies the site of “the lost city” of Medina Al-Zahra — the so-called “Moorish Versailles.” It was constructed in the tenth century by the first caliph of al-Andalús, Abd ar-Rahman III. Thousands of workers and animals slaved to build this mammoth pleasure palace, said to have contained 300 baths and 400 houses. The Berbers sacked the place in 1013. Over the years the site has been plundered for building materials. Some of these, it is said, went to build the Alcázar in Seville. Today, the Royal House has been reconstructed. The principal salon remains in fragments, so you need your power of imagination to visualize the gleaming white marble floors and jeweled walls that were here. Just beyond the Royal House are the ruins of a mosque constructed to face Mecca. On our way to Seville we’ll stop for lunch in the pint-size town of Carmona, which is surrounded by fortified walls and has three Moorish fortresses. The town claims an architectural legacy from every occupying force since 206 B.C., when the Romans defeated the resident Carthaginian army. It grew in power and prestige under the Moors, establishing ties with Castile in 1252. The town itself is practically a national landmark, filled with narrow streets, whitewashed walls, and Renaissance mansions. This is a delightful town to wander around and find yourself a bite to eat. Continuing on to Seville, we’ll check in to our hotel and reconvene later for a dinner with flamenco show. With a population of more than 700,000, Seville is easily Andalucía’s largest city and the fourth biggest in Spain. It’s also one of the most romanticized places in the country: exotic, steamy, scented with orange and jasmine, jacarandas, flamenco, gypsies, tapas, great architecture, vivacious festivals, twisting cobbled streets . . . In short, it’s to Seville that travelers go to indulge their fantasies about Spain. Breakfast and dinner with flamenco show.

	Day 6 We visit Seville’s cathedral — and its sheer size may take your breath away. It’s not just the height of the Giralda (the cathedral’s most emblematic structure) that’s striking but just the mass of the building. Begun in 1434 the cathedral was to be “a church which those who see it finished will think we were mad for attempting.” Today it’s considered the largest church in the world — bigger in volume than St. Peter’s in Rome. The 12th-century bronze doors have inscriptions from the Koran. Indeed, it was on this site that Christians worshiped in a 12th-century mosque. At its highest point the central nave rises to almost 140 feet, supported by 12-foot-thick columns. The retablo (altarpiece) is the largest in the world at almost 120 feet. The centerpiece of the cathedral is the main altar in the Capilla Mayor, an extraordinary work begun in 1482 and completed a century later. It contains more than 1,000 sculptures in wood and gold. At one corner of the cathedral is the entrance to the Giralda, the symbol of Seville and a landmark from almost anywhere in the city. We’ll also visit the Alcázar. Pedro I (“the Cruel”) built this magnificent 14th-century mudéjar fortress-palace north of the cathedral. It’s the oldest royal residence in Europe still in use: On visits to Seville, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofía stay here. From the Dolls' Court to the Maidens' Court through the domed Ambassadors’ Room, it contains some of the finest work of Sevillian artisans. The Alcázar contains the finest examples of 14th-century Moorish architecture outside the Alhambra. Ferdinand and Isabella, who at one time lived in the Alcázar and influenced its architectural evolution, welcomed Columbus here on his return from America. After a group lunch in one of the city’s most renowned restaurants, the afternoon is free in Seville to follow your own interests. Wander the maze of streets that is the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the city’s most evocative quarter. Or check out the Casa de Pilatos, so called, by one theory, because it is meant to be a reproduction of Pontius Pilate’s house in Jerusalem. It is one of Seville’s prettiest mansions. Breakfast and lunch included.

	Day 7 We head south today to Jerez de la Frontera, the economy of which is almost entirely dependent on the production and export of sherry and brandy. The name Jerez is an anglicized version of the Phoenician “Xeres.” The Moors called it “Sherrish,” and they ruled until 1264. Around this time “de la Frontera” was added to the name as it was on the front line of constant skirmishes between the Moors and Christians. But aside from sherry, Jerez is also known for horses. The Royal Riding School is based here, and the town hosted the World Equestrian Games in 2002. Our destination is the Royal Riding School, the training and breeding center of thoroughbred Andalucían horses whose lineage can be traced back to the 15th-century. Here we will attend the “Dancing Horses” show, where the horses conduct a series of steps, skips, and jumps to classical music. From Jerez we head into a rugged interior zone where the so-called “pueblos blancos” lie — sublime “white villages” that are scattered like patches of snow among spectacular steep mountain slopes. This is a lovely drive, and we still stop at some of these villages along our way. We’ll be passing some of the great scenic landscapes of Spain. The Spanish fir, which only grows in four locations above 3,300 ft., thrives here. Some of the limestone slopes rise as high as 5,000 ft. Castle ruins and old church bell towers also form part of the landscape. Short of crossing the Mediterranean, this area will give you the best taste of a Moroccan landscape. Spring will be a particularly lovely time to drive through the “pueblos blancos” when wildflowers should be bursting into bloom. We’ll end the day outside the city of Ronda where delightful countryside accommodation will host us for two nights. Surrounded by olive orchards the hotel is in what was once an old farmhouse with an olive press dating back to the 18th century. This is a wonderful spot to relax and breathe in the refreshing country air. Our hosts await us with a nice dinner. Breakfast and dinner included.

	Day 8 The tiny city of Ronda enjoys an incomparable setting, perched high above the Tajo Gorge. On both sides are houses clinging to cliffs that look like they might plunge down the 300-foot abyss with the slightest push. Ronda also has beautiful and historic art and architecture, with one of the oldest bullrings in the country and plenty of Roman and Moorish ruins. Ronda has enthralled the likes of Victor Hugo, Rainer Maria Rilke, Ernest Hemingway, and Orson Welles. Less romantically, during the Spanish Civil War both Nationalist and Republican prisoners were forced to jump to their deaths in the gorge (depending on which group was in control of Ronda at the time), events that were to act as a basis for Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls. We will wander the town taking in some its more interesting sights, including the Plaza de Toros, one of the oldest, most beautiful rings in Spain. Built in 1785 it was here that local bullfighter Pedro Romero (1754-1839) established modern bullfighting techniques and style. You’ll have time on your own for lunch and wandering around Ronda. We then return to our farm-stay to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon soaking up the tranquil atmosphere, perhaps taking a nice walk in the environs or just relaxing in the grounds before dinner. Breakfast and dinner included.

	Day 9 On our last full day in Andalucía we head to the coast, to the provincial capital of Málaga. Millions of package tourists pass through its airport each year on their way to the sea and sand of the Costa del Sol resorts, but relatively few of them visit this city. A pity because here there’s history, good shopping, a likeable and walkable city center, a new world-class Picasso museum, and a varied and lively bar and restaurant scene. Málaga is perhaps the most genuine of all the towns on the Costa del Sol, and it was Federico García Lorca’s favorite town. We will visit the Museo Picasso Málaga, which opened in the fall of 2003 and brought the city new money, a new role, and hope for a brighter future. The gallery itself is a superb space. Converted from a sumptuous early 16th-century palace, it is part old-world palace, with ornate carved wood ceilings and nice Renaissance and Mudéjar features; and part creamy-white futuristic architectural space. What’s more, excavations beneath the building, which uncovered Phoenician, Roman, and Moorish remains, have been seamlessly blended into the museum’s design, treating visitors to a splendid architectural display spanning three millennia. Thanks to the generosity of Picasso’s heirs, the museum boasts 204 original works, including oil paintings, sculptures, drawings, sketchpads, and ceramics. Together, the works present a deeply personal retrospective of one of the most highly regarded artists of the 20th century. Laid out in chronological order, the collection follows Picasso’s development from his teenage years to his final piece, which he painted seven months before his death. You have the afternoon free for last-minute shopping, strolling, café hopping, or taking in some of Málaga’s other interesting sights. This evening we’ll come together again for a farewell drink and then dinner. Breakfast, farewell drink, and dinner included.

	Day 10 After breakfast, depart according to your own travel plans. Hasta luego! Breakfast included. {Please note: The above itinerary represents our intentions for this 10-day tour through Andalucía. We reserve the right to modify some of the itinerary details if circumstances dictate.}

	ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE LOGISTICS Day 1: Granada has air service from Madrid on Spanair and Iberia and from Barcelona on Spanair. These are short flights – about an hour. A train from Madrid to Granada takes about 4 1⁄2 to 5 hours. Day 10: Málaga has an airport with many flights to Madrid on Iberia, Spanair, and Air Europa. There are several flights to Barcelona on Spanair. Again, these are short flights. From Málaga there are also flights to London Heathrow and London Gatwick on British Airways; to Paris on Air France and Air Europa; to Frankfurt on Lufthansa; to Brussels on Brussels Airlines. This is just a general guide. Flight service is subject to change. The train from Málaga to Madrid takes about 4 to 4 1⁄2 hours. A good web site to know about is www.flylc.com which is a site that focuses on low-cost air carriers within Europe.
	ACCOMMODATIONS Following is a description of the hotels we use on this tour. We reserve the right to make changes to these accommodations if necessary.
	Granada We’ve chosen a lovely small hotel tucked behind a charming set of side alleyways in the heart of Granada, close to the Alhambra. Completely reconstructed in 2003 and built around a central courtyard with splashing fountain, this is a charming boutique hotel situated in a building from 1642 in the charismatic Albaicín district. The hotel is in a good location, and the staff are friendly, attentive, and responsive. Public areas are graceful and museum like. The hotel is nicely decorated with thoughtful Moorish touches, and the space itself teems with history and ambience. There’s access to a computer with free Internet. A complimentary happy hour happens in the wine cellar. All rooms are nonsmoking.
	Córdoba At the top of Córdoba’s hotel league, this 5-star knockout opened in 2006. The beautiful 17th-century mansion is built over the ruins of a Roman house in the heart of the historical center of Córdoba. The ruins are wonderfully displayed through the magnificent glass floor in the main indoor courtyard. The company that owns the property specializes in careful and tasteful renovations of impressive and historic buildings to the highest of expected modern standards, and this is exemplary of its work. Archaeological remains, mixed with high-tech features (such as Internet access), and a relaxing pool and spa complete the enticing cocktail. The garden is gorgeous and the small pool is lovely.
	Seville We have selected a hotel that occupies a handsome building dating from the middle of the 19th century and which was renovated in 2005. The hotel is located in close proximity of Seville’s famous Cathedral. All major tourist and historical areas are within walking distance. Such attractions, including the Teatro de la Maestranza (opera house), the Santa Cruz Quarter, and the Museo de Bellas Artes, are all within half a kilometer of the hotel. Each of the hotel’s tastefully decorated 57 guestrooms features modern decor and sleek wood furnishings. Extra touches include flat-screen TV, great showers, nice linens, reading lights, and complimentary internet access. There is also a hospitable and knowledgeable staff.
	Ronda We stay at a stunning countryside retreat in gorgeous surroundings where we’re treated to a welcoming staff, excellent dining in the restaurant with flawless presentation, and tranquility and peacefulness. It’s the feeling of staying in a friend’s country hacienda rather than a hotel. There’s a large airy lounge with sofas, books, games, and a laptop that guests can use to access the internet free of charge. The swimming pool area is very nice for relaxation and reading, and there are stunning views over the surrounding landscape. Rooms are all individually decorated with local antiques.
	Málaga This is one of Málaga’s newest hotels, opened in 2006. Located in the center of Málaga, it is ideally placed for exploring the city. It’s situated next to the Cathedral and is within easy walking distance to the Picasso Museum, the Alcazaba, and the Gibralfaro Castle. The hotel has a rooftop pool. The staff are friendly and helpful. The soundproofed rooms are decorated nicely in a hip, modern/minimalist style and come with high-quality bath amenities.
	TOUR COST $3,995 (15-16 participants) $4,195 (13-14 participants) $4,395 (9-12 participants) Single Supplement: $675 Tour Cost Includes: * Accommodations as described above * Buffet breakfasts at our accommodations * Lunch or dinner each day in fine restaurants * Welcome and farewell drinks * Local Spanish-speaking tour leader accompanying the group throughout the trip * Local tour guides' services for all towns/cities visited * Sightseeing tours in each town/city * Entrance fees at sights mentioned in the itinerary * Comfortable, modern tour bus; fuel, tolls, parking * Driver's services and room/board Tour Cost Does Not Include: * Airfare * Tipping to Tour Escort and Driver * Meals not specified in the day-to-day itinerary * Any extra hotel nights that may be needed or desired * Entrance fees to sights not specified in the day-to-day itinerary * Personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, room service, minibar charges, etc. {Please note: Over the past few years the value of the U.S. dollar has fluctuated significantly against the Euro — and in an unfavorable direction for the dollar. At the time of publishing this itinerary, we have based the U.S. dollar price on an exchange rate of 1 Euro = $1.38. We reserve the right to alter the trip pricing indicated here should there be a significant fluctuation of the dollar in either direction — up or down.}

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